Piecing the top of a quilt together is actually my favorite part of the
whole quilting process! I just love to
sit and make blocks…I can get lost in that for hours…
What about piecing threads? I
have lots of things to say about that!
Fiber
content
Do you piece with 100% cotton?
That’s the traditional way. And
there are some good reasons for it.
If you are using 100% cotton fabric, then using the same fiber content
for thread assures that the fabric and thread will age at the same rate. Historically, we have “believed” that using a
poly piecing thread on cotton fabric will “cut” the fabric because the poly is
so much stronger. In the new quilting millennium,
we are finding that the soft polys probably don’t cut the fabric. But polyester will certainly age more slowly
than cotton. So the choice is
yours. If it is important to you that
your quilting fibers age at the same rate then use all-cotton thread on cotton
fabric. We have quilts in museums and
collections that are 150 years old and were made with all cotton materials and
are still in beautiful shape. As a
quilting culture, we have a lot of experience with cotton and we know how it
performs.
Cotton, by nature, is fibrous and has a “grippy” nature to it as the
fibers cling together. We RELY on that
when piecing; that’s what allows your fabrics to move under the presser foot evenly,
when the feed dogs are only pulling on the bottom layer. Cotton thread has a grippy nature, too. Threads are treated on the surface to remove
fuzziness – the premium threads are very smooth and have been through multiple
processes to create a silky surface. That
process is called “mercerizing” and thread companies take great care to have mercerizing
steps that make the thread smooth but do not compromise the strength or
consistency of the thread.
But cotton thread is somewhat grippy, even when it is very smooth, and
we rely on that feature for the thread to fill the hole created by the
needle. To make an evenly filled seam.
It is certainly possible to piece with polyester and many people
do. But remember that the poly is a form
of plastic and it will not fill the hole created by the needle in the same way
that cotton does. So if it is important
to you to have a smooth, filled seam line, use cotton.
Even when quilting on top, these considerations are the same.
Finally, there are threads that contain a combination of cotton and poly. For example, a poly core that is wrapped with
cotton. I find that most quilters want
more control over the thread and how it performs and they will select an
all-cotton or all-poly thread. The
threads with a combination of fibers usually are constructed with a “wrapped”
technique rather than a twist and the wraps don’t always go through your
machine without incident.
The Wonderfil company makes their poly threads with a technique that
they call “cottonized” and these threads are exceptionally soft and easy to
use. Master Quilter, DecoBob, and
Invisifil all are cottonized.
I pieced and quilted this miniature pineapple quilt
with 100-weight Invisafil cottonized polyester thread.
Thread
Weight
Generally speaking, thread weights run from thick to thin, 0 to
100. [That’s not entirely true but it
works for discussion purposes.] In the
middle, the average weight thread is a 50 weight and that’s what you have been using
for piecing. Quilters like a 50- or 60-weight
thread for piecing. Strong and easy to
use.
Some threads have two plys twisted together, some have three. Three-ply thread is probably the most
traditional and it will feel more familiar to you (if you took home ec in 1968 like
I did).
Thread takes up room in the seam allowance. So the smaller your block pieces are, the
more you need to pay attention to your thread weight.
A 60-weight thread or a 50-weight two ply thread will give you a finer
seam than a 50-weight three ply thread. 50-weight
two-ply threads perform more like the 60-weight thread in your block. Both are strong.
Finer threads such as 80-weight or 100-weight are not as strong. I use those for piecing art quilts that will
not have as much wear and tear. I also
use them for embellishment (like machine blanket stitching or thread painting)
and I use 80-weight thread in the bobbin for many different kinds of threads on
the top.
Test your piecing results in the traditional way. Cut with precision, sew with precision, and
then spread your pieces apart to see if they result in exactly the dimension
that you expect. If they don’t, and you
can’t explain it any other way, your thread may be too heavy for this project.
For example, a 40-weight thread (typically the weight for quilting on
top) is a little too heavy for most piecing.
If you’re applying a big ol’ border at midnight and 40-weight thread is all
you have in the house, use it! But
remember that for precision piecing you’ll need a finer thread.
When you CHANGE thread with different weights in a project or between
different projects, remember to test your results again.
Some people find two-ply 50-weight threads to be a little too fragile
for them. Especially if your machine puts
a lot of stress on the thread or if you are pulling hard when you
hand-sew. If that describes you, change
to a three-ply 50-weight thread. You’ll
notice a difference right away.
Do your completed quilts have seam pops after they have been washed or
used? To avoid this, use a three-ply
thread for piecing.
Here is a list of threads available from Threadmongers – you know that
my advice will be to try them all!!
Cotton
– solid colors in spools and cones
Aurifil – 50-weight, two-ply (most weights of Aurifil are two-ply)
Konfetti from Wonderfil – 50-weight, three-ply
Masterpiece from Superior – 50-weight, three-ply on the spool or cone
Masterpiece from Superior – 50-weight, two-ply on prewound bobbins
Presencia – 50-weight, three-ply
Presencia – 60-weight, three-ply
Signature 60 – 60-weight, three-ply
Valdani – 50-weight, three-ply
Valdani – 60-weight, three-ply
These are all premium threads, with the premium long-staple cotton
fibers and the best manufacturing practices.
All are lovely and easy to use. I
have used them ALL with success.
Polyester
– solid colors in spools and cones
Bottom Line from Superior – 60-weight, two-ply
So Fine from Superior – 50-weight, three-ply
DecoBob from Wonderfil – 80-weight, two-ply
Invisafil from Wonderfil – 100-weight, two-ply
Every thread has its place in the sun!
There is no “best” thread. Each
manufacturer takes great pride in their product and they are eager for you to
try them all. I like to use the threads
that I think are best for my project. For baby quilts and kids’ quilts I try to
quilt for DURABILITY as my first consideration.
But
wait, there’s more!
If you think that this is a list of all the threads available from
Threadmongers, you’re wrong! There are
many more choices of quilting, embellishing, and applique threads. Be sure to visit the great Pacific Northwest quilt
shows where Threadmongers is a vendor. If
you’re looking for a particular thread or have a question, just contact us
through the comments section on this blog!
YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH THE THREADS is an important step in skill building. Try several and see what they do. There is no substitute for experience, and as
you learn how they perform you’ll be able to choose just the right thread for
your project every time!
A
link to more info!
Finally, have you already read my little essay on using neutral and
colored thread for piecing?
Check it out at this link:
